Berhampore

Berhampore
Sankar Dhar, 1977 Mechanical Engineering

Berhampore, the small town that carries so many memories of Bengal.
In 600 AD. Bengal had a Hindu Brahmin ruler Shashanka in Gauda (a region in Bengal). The capital of Gouda was Karnosubarno. This is the oldest history available of Bengal. A inhabitant of brahmin was in Bramhmapur, a nearby place of Karnosubarno. Later the Bramhmapur became Berhampore, an easy pronunciation in English.

After the battle of Plassey, British fortified this place and build the town for residents and army personnel of East India Company. One side of the town is river Bhagirathi. You will find touches of European planning and architecture in building Berhampore. In my childhood, I found Berhampore a beautiful place. Many football and cricket grounds. Tennis courts. Rifle shooting range. Theatres and buildings with Italian architecture. Above all the beautiful bank of river Bhagirathi with boat rides. Up to 1780 Berhampore was the seat of power of East India Company. It was a cantonment town with treasury. The supreme court of Warren Hastings was in Berhampore. The famous trial of Maharaj Nanda kumar was in Berhampore.

Berhampur was an education centre from the very old days. The Krishnath college was built in 1853 by Maharani Swarnamoye of Cossimbazar in the name of Maharaja Krishna Chandra, her husband. The architect was John Mullar. It is on the bank of Bhagirathi it resembles Oxford by river Thames. It was a prestigious college of Calcutta University with post graduation in Arts.

The arena of Berhampore is Square field, military parade ground. The field is a perfect square with each side 440 yards. The perimeter is one mile. The old buildings of Italian architecture are surrounding this field.

Berhampore is connected to Calcutta by rail, the famous Lalgola passenger. It is one of the oldest trains of Eastern Railway, still old with no improvement. People say, making jokes, you will find signatures of James Watt in the wheels of Lalgola passenger.

Nawabs of Bengal were rulers of Subaha Bangla. It replaced the rule of imperial viceroy (nominated governor of Mughal emperor). Nawabs of princely states and independent provinces are like Great Dukes of Europe.

Subaha Bangla was the largest and wealthiest province of Mughal empire. It borders from Oudh in west to Arakans in east including Bengal, Bihar and Orissa.

Bengal used to contribute the largest revenue in Mughal treasury. The Diwan of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan was a good administrator and revenue collector. When there was a feud between the Governor Azim ud Shan and Diwan (Chief Minister) Murshid Quli Khan Mughal emperor Aurangzeb abolished the post of viceroy (Governor) and created the post of hereditary Nawab. Murshid quli Khan was appointed as the first Nawab of Subaha Bangla.

Nawab Murshid quli Khan shifted the capital from Dcca (Dhaka) to a central place of the province. He established the city Murshidabad in his name, decorated with royal place, gardens mosques, markets, caravanserai to give a look like a capital city. Murshid quli Khan was a good ruler also maintained communal harmony. Their trades flourished mainly in the trading of muslin, silk, metal works, gun powder. Salt, etc. European traders gathered around Murshidabad, Hugli, Balasore, and Chittagong. French East India Company, British East India Company established their centres in Cossimbazar. The Dutch East India established in Hugli and the Austrian East India Company had their base in Balasore. The revenue collection was increased many folds. People all over India and Eurasia, Armenians flocked in Murshidabad. Bankers like Jagat Seth used to lend money to Nawab, Zamindar, and European traders.

Next three generations of Nawabi raj ran smoothly. Thereafter, Ali Bordi Khan (Commander in Chief) overthrew the Nawab Surfaraj Khan and became the ruler of Bengal. Ali Bordi was strong and efficient ruler who saved Bengal from Maratha aggression and also from the onslaught of Arakan (Mog) pirates. He strengthened the military bases in Dhaka and Patna. Ali Bordi did not have male child. His two daughters were Amina Begum, mother of Nawab Siraj ud Doula and Ghaseti Begum who did not have any child. Ghaseti Begum had charming youth and lavish lifestyle, and well connected to the elites of the city.

Untimely death of Nawab Ali Bordi made Siraj to step on the throne of Bengal at the age of 17. Siraj was an unruly character, bad tempered and bad mannered youth. Many trusted lieutenants of Nawab throne felt descanted and set aside themselves or joined the enemy camp. The British East India Company became his foe and joined in conspiracy with Siraj’s aunt Ghasiti Begam. Motijhil palace of Ghasiti Begum was the centre of conspiracy of anti Siraj camp. Siraj, after getting information stormed Motijhil palace and made the British resident a prisoner.

In 1756, Siraj attacked British fort (purano kela) at Calcutta and won the decisive victory. The British residents escaped to Madras. Siraj joined hands with French. At that time seven year long Anglo French war was on in Europe, and the Britishers were planning to take revenge in India. The British gained their strength from Madras and recaptured Calcutta. The Nawab was reluctant. Calcutta was a place where Nawab’s men hardly pay any visit. Lord Clive lured Mir Jaffar (Commander in Chief of Siraj) in his side. The battle of Plassey was fought on 30th June 1757 only for half a day with Mir Jaffar distanced his army from the battle. The fate of Bengal (thereafter India) was decided.

The British took the control of Bengal. Mir Jaffar was made a puppet Nawab. Mir Jaffar was forced to retire in 1760. The British suspected his connection with Dutch. His son-in- law Mir Qasim became the Nawab. Mir Qasim was another bad choice for British. The independent spirit of Mir Qasim made him in war against British. Mir Qasim shifted the capital to Munger against the objection of British. He stormed British resident in Patna. Mir Qasim joined hand with Suja ud Doula, Nawab of Oudh and Mughal emperor Shah Alam II. But the Mughal allies lost the Battle of Buxar. The British flag paved its way in Northern India. After Mir Qasim Mir Jaffar was reinstalled as Nawab again. The descendants of Mir Jaffar are still Nawabs without any glamour.

Hazar Duari was built in 1830 by the British. It was court of puppet Nawab and resident of British officials. Presently, it is a museum with some rare collections of paintings.

Berhampur Fort 1850.